Identifier: travelsinatlasso00thom (find matches)
Title: Travels in the Atlas and southern Morocco. A narrative of exploration
Year: 1889 (1880s)
Authors: Thomson, Joseph, 1858-1895
Subjects: Morocco -- Description and travel Atlas Mountains
Publisher: New York : Longmans, Green, and co.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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had we crossed a single stream or rivulet,with the exception of the Azamor river. Neither hadwe ascended a hill, nor even seen one, nor had we foundoccasion to halt and admire the slightest approach toa picturesque landscape. We had, in fact, seen nothingbut rounded low ridges, or even more monotonousflat expanses, varied only by waving corn, dark-greenbush tracts, or gorgeous flower reaches. Now, however, we descended a narrow defile, alongwhich trickled a small muddy streamlet shaded byolive and fig. Farther down, the narrow defile openedsomewhat, and enclosed a series of pleasant little gar-dens shaded by pomegranate and orange, fig and olive,date and banana, and beautified by an abundance ofgeraniums and lilies, and numerous other familiar andunfamiliar flowers. At length we reached the seaward mouth of theglen, and Saffl, all white and gleaming, lay between usand the turbulent sea. On our right were now the numerous Iuhas of thesaints of Safll, and on our left the huge barrack or
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AZAMOR TO MOGADOR. 59 rather prison-like palace of the Sultans tJoniiiiuted thetown. A fine Portuguese gateway gave entrance throughthe well-built crenelated walls which girdle the com-pact mass of houses. Nearer approach, as usual, belied the promise of thedistance, and we passed along repulsive lanes, hemmedin by mean buildings, and finally reached the residenceof Mr. George Hunot, British Vice-Consul. Here we got a hearty welcome, and were soon madeaware that we had not only discovered a generous host,but an unrivalled adviser on all matters pertaining toMoorish travel. I do not know if there is anotherEuropean in jMorocco who in any way approaches Mr.Ilunot in his knowledge of the Moor and his language,as well as of many of the southern provinces of theEmpire. As our horses and mules were showing signs offatigue, we remained at Safli on the following day,not by any means unprofitably, and certainly not un-pleasantly. During the day we experienced the excite-ment of hawking in Moro

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